Shadow
09-23-2001, 10:29 PM
This was posted by kakarott7 at mindbinge
up dated on 7-10-01 by nimrod
This is only for educational use blah blah blah.
It's best to use a programmer with the 3.68 xtal (crystal oscillator) in it. A 3.57 can work, but I have never been able to get a good dump with one.
First, dump your card using Freetalk1.2c using the "D" command. Make sure you get a good dump, I would repeat several times and make sure they're consistent (read Talk's readme on this, basically it should only take a few seconds...if it stutters then escape and try again). Keep this bin, do NOT write over it (this will be your "clean" bin to fall back on in case you make a mistake somewhere). If your card number is S 00 0085 6798 56, Name it 6798. DO NOT NAME IT IMAGE. If this is a virgin card or a current sub then you shouldn't have to worry about changing the CAMID.
If it's an exsub that has been desubbed for more than 6 months you should be ok too. Any less than that, then you may want to risk cloning until it's been 6 months (approximately when dish stops sending the desub signal).
Cloning can be dangerous! Don't use a different CAMID unless you have to. I tested a virgin card that had the CAMID in only one location and changed it. The receiver still showed the card's actual CAMID (not the cloned one). Once I loaded the CAMID to the other two locations below $E400 it showed the cloned CAMID though. This just shows that even with a different CAMID, the receiver is able to tell the TRUE CAMID number of the card (and dish could ECM a card that has the wrong CAMID written to it). Just a warning.
Im not going into the different blockers here. I will say that adding a blocker to a rom2 aqnd Rom3 are a must. In the 3.0 and higher you can append a blocker with wbininfo. Just click dlk and pick which blocker you want to add. Read the blocker readme before you use one. Use the A command to write the blocker. I would also verify it bu other means.
Use latest version of wbinfo (as of this FAQ version 3.1. (3.0 and higher does not support rom2 cards you must use 2.0) Click next to the file box (it's a tiny box with three dots in a row). A file open dialog will appear, choose your bin for that card, then click open. Now click "Load Bin", then "Process Bin". We're not really worried about importing any tiers yet, only do so if you know what you're doing. Now click on the "Tier Nee Creator" tab. Click the "Update" button. A list of all available tiers is available in the left side. Select them one at a time and click the double right arrow or just double-click the tier (the tier line will now show up in the right side). Here's some basics on how to construct your tiers:
If you want America's Top 150, you need to add the lower tiers also. For example you would need to load America's Top 50, America's Top 100, the Music channels, then America's Top 150 (we'll abbreviate that to AT150). Also it's not necessary to load some of the movie channels. For example, when you have AT150 and one of the TMC (East or West) tiers, you automatically get the others. Same with the Western Channel. So to get all of the TMC and Starz channels, just load AT150, ONE of the TMC tiers (either TMC 1&2 East OR TMC 1&2 West, I'd pick the one you would normally get if you subscribed) and the Starz/Encore tier (don't load Western individually). It should be fine to load overlapping tiers, but we want this to look as legit as possible.
Don't load tiers in wbinfo with all 0's for the rights identifier. These are not valid tiers, all tiers have a rights identifier. This is still safer than using a 3M though, so if you must have that channel, go ahead. Also, I wouldn't load any of the "hidden" channels.
A valid zip code is needed to watch 496. It's blacked out using the same rules (more or less) that your familiar 596 used. Also, the zip code MUST be in the same time zone you are in, you can use a different zip code but within a few hours your card will update your time zone to the new zip code's. Now, it's possible that dish could ECM your card if you have a local tier not valid for the zip you're in but it's unlikely. It'd be more likely that they would ECM you for having multiple local channels (again, not too likely). Think, a legal subscriber could live in one state, and call dish to change their address (while the IRD is disconnected though, since they're moving). Dish will stop sending the code for the new zip within a few days. You get to your new home and order the locals there. They update the card with the new tiers, but not the zip code. I don't think they'd risk targeting that.
Again, remember that for locals or channel 496 to work, you MUST have either a dish500 dish, or a dish pointed at 110 degrees. If you update your zip for 496 to work, it may take several hours (perhaps overnight) for the blackout info to update to let you watch it. Also, the locals or the national networks will not show up immediately, give them an hour or so to become available. The only channel I couldn't get to work was Cinemax, but it sucks ass anyways so it's not a big loss. All others seem to work like a charm.
Another great thing about Dish, is that you can subscribe to the Adult channels, instead of just using them as PPV. Load tiers for channels 495 through 499. Dish channel 496 is the equivalent to DTV channel 596, with the addition of "rear action" (I'll let you figure out what that is). Now to get 496 or most locals, you'll need a second dish pointed at the 110 bird, or a dish 500 dish (yes, a dtv dish works fine, you can use two pointed at separate birds, then a switch to combine the signals).
At the bottom right, you'll see some dates entered in, and some checkboxes next to them with options such as "Use 0000 instead of Date." Leave all four checked except for the second one (for the Start Date). Enter a past date for this. If the card is a current sub, you can read the start date for some of your tiers using the Tier Info tab. But as long as it's a past date (say no more than a year old) you should be fine. Over to the right from those boxes, are some "Nee file options." Select the "Create w/ 8 Byte Align" option (requires your bin to already be loaded, which we did). Leave the rest alone
There are a couple different ways of activating ppv. The first and safest is connect your phone line to your IRD and go into the diagnostic screen. This is explained in detail later when it needs to be done.
The easiest way is simply use the PPV actiation tier. Warning this is thought by some that this may be a ecm target.
The last is to append the ppv string. You do this by
Select ACTION drop down menu
Then APPEND PPV String
Then EDIT STORED String
enter this string
(rom3)
07230B010100008AFF7FFE7FFE7FFE7FFEFF00007F00FF0000
03E77FFF7FFF7FFE7FFE7FFE
(rom2)B0B010100008AFF7FFE7FFE7FFE7FFEFF00007F00FF0 00003E77FFF7FFF7FFE7FFE7FFE
Click OK after verifying its entered correctly
Select ACTION
Select APPEND PPV String
Select USE STORED STRING
You will see bin scroll by and PPV should show 2
This step isnt needed but will later save time editing your nee. Goto config, Click get current where it has box keys and ird info. This will pull all info off your loaded bin for your ird#, boxkeys and zipcode. If you want to change irds its also easier to do it here.
Now click the "Randomize" button if you wish, then the "Create" button.
You'll be at the "Nee Files" box now. If your card is ROM2 card, select NE2 as the file type, else if it's a ROM3 (most common) select NE3 as the file type (I personally copy the lines and place in an existing file). Choose whether you want to save the NEE as 1 file or 4 files (I never have problems using the 1 file option, if you do then try creating 4 files). Make sure you click the button (for 1 or 4 files) that's pointing to the right (it's also the bottom two buttons if you're not sure), else you'll be saving the original bin's NEE file.
No go back into talk, press A, type Y to acknowledge the warning, then type the file name to load on your card (without the .ne3 or .ne2 extension). It will take a while, but once it's loaded you should be watching TV!
This next step only needs to be done if you didnt already activate ppv in another way. Connect your phone line to your IRD and go into the diagnostic screen. Test the phone line, then unplug the phone line. Re-dump the card in talk, name it something like activat.bin. Now you should be able to watch PPV since the IRD has been told it's connected to a line. Some newer models (noticed on the dishplayer 500) seems to want to test the line every time you watch a movie. This is safe, as long as you only have the line connected for about 10 seconds (it would take longer to actually dial dish, connect, and send info). You can listen in on another phone if you wish. Once your PPV are full, you can convert that bin into an .ne3 file, and rewrite lines $E5A8 and below (or run bincmp and only write the differences, for semi-advanced users). Some important notes:
Here's some important card locations. The locations aren't exact though, in particular the second two CAMID locations always seem to be off for me but not by much. To make sure, type the actual number in Windows Calculator in decimal mode (for the CAMID leave off the last two numbers on the card) and convert to hex. Now search for this number in the bin or nee file, replace with the new info.
040D-0410 = IRD (backwards)
0421-0428 = Secret Boxkey
0508-050F = Decrypt Key 0
0510-0517 = Decrypt Key 1
E038-E03C = CAM ID
E42F-E432 = CAM ID
E4EC-E4EE = CAM ID
E408-E40A = Zip Code
E40B = Time Zone
up dated on 7-10-01 by nimrod
This is only for educational use blah blah blah.
It's best to use a programmer with the 3.68 xtal (crystal oscillator) in it. A 3.57 can work, but I have never been able to get a good dump with one.
First, dump your card using Freetalk1.2c using the "D" command. Make sure you get a good dump, I would repeat several times and make sure they're consistent (read Talk's readme on this, basically it should only take a few seconds...if it stutters then escape and try again). Keep this bin, do NOT write over it (this will be your "clean" bin to fall back on in case you make a mistake somewhere). If your card number is S 00 0085 6798 56, Name it 6798. DO NOT NAME IT IMAGE. If this is a virgin card or a current sub then you shouldn't have to worry about changing the CAMID.
If it's an exsub that has been desubbed for more than 6 months you should be ok too. Any less than that, then you may want to risk cloning until it's been 6 months (approximately when dish stops sending the desub signal).
Cloning can be dangerous! Don't use a different CAMID unless you have to. I tested a virgin card that had the CAMID in only one location and changed it. The receiver still showed the card's actual CAMID (not the cloned one). Once I loaded the CAMID to the other two locations below $E400 it showed the cloned CAMID though. This just shows that even with a different CAMID, the receiver is able to tell the TRUE CAMID number of the card (and dish could ECM a card that has the wrong CAMID written to it). Just a warning.
Im not going into the different blockers here. I will say that adding a blocker to a rom2 aqnd Rom3 are a must. In the 3.0 and higher you can append a blocker with wbininfo. Just click dlk and pick which blocker you want to add. Read the blocker readme before you use one. Use the A command to write the blocker. I would also verify it bu other means.
Use latest version of wbinfo (as of this FAQ version 3.1. (3.0 and higher does not support rom2 cards you must use 2.0) Click next to the file box (it's a tiny box with three dots in a row). A file open dialog will appear, choose your bin for that card, then click open. Now click "Load Bin", then "Process Bin". We're not really worried about importing any tiers yet, only do so if you know what you're doing. Now click on the "Tier Nee Creator" tab. Click the "Update" button. A list of all available tiers is available in the left side. Select them one at a time and click the double right arrow or just double-click the tier (the tier line will now show up in the right side). Here's some basics on how to construct your tiers:
If you want America's Top 150, you need to add the lower tiers also. For example you would need to load America's Top 50, America's Top 100, the Music channels, then America's Top 150 (we'll abbreviate that to AT150). Also it's not necessary to load some of the movie channels. For example, when you have AT150 and one of the TMC (East or West) tiers, you automatically get the others. Same with the Western Channel. So to get all of the TMC and Starz channels, just load AT150, ONE of the TMC tiers (either TMC 1&2 East OR TMC 1&2 West, I'd pick the one you would normally get if you subscribed) and the Starz/Encore tier (don't load Western individually). It should be fine to load overlapping tiers, but we want this to look as legit as possible.
Don't load tiers in wbinfo with all 0's for the rights identifier. These are not valid tiers, all tiers have a rights identifier. This is still safer than using a 3M though, so if you must have that channel, go ahead. Also, I wouldn't load any of the "hidden" channels.
A valid zip code is needed to watch 496. It's blacked out using the same rules (more or less) that your familiar 596 used. Also, the zip code MUST be in the same time zone you are in, you can use a different zip code but within a few hours your card will update your time zone to the new zip code's. Now, it's possible that dish could ECM your card if you have a local tier not valid for the zip you're in but it's unlikely. It'd be more likely that they would ECM you for having multiple local channels (again, not too likely). Think, a legal subscriber could live in one state, and call dish to change their address (while the IRD is disconnected though, since they're moving). Dish will stop sending the code for the new zip within a few days. You get to your new home and order the locals there. They update the card with the new tiers, but not the zip code. I don't think they'd risk targeting that.
Again, remember that for locals or channel 496 to work, you MUST have either a dish500 dish, or a dish pointed at 110 degrees. If you update your zip for 496 to work, it may take several hours (perhaps overnight) for the blackout info to update to let you watch it. Also, the locals or the national networks will not show up immediately, give them an hour or so to become available. The only channel I couldn't get to work was Cinemax, but it sucks ass anyways so it's not a big loss. All others seem to work like a charm.
Another great thing about Dish, is that you can subscribe to the Adult channels, instead of just using them as PPV. Load tiers for channels 495 through 499. Dish channel 496 is the equivalent to DTV channel 596, with the addition of "rear action" (I'll let you figure out what that is). Now to get 496 or most locals, you'll need a second dish pointed at the 110 bird, or a dish 500 dish (yes, a dtv dish works fine, you can use two pointed at separate birds, then a switch to combine the signals).
At the bottom right, you'll see some dates entered in, and some checkboxes next to them with options such as "Use 0000 instead of Date." Leave all four checked except for the second one (for the Start Date). Enter a past date for this. If the card is a current sub, you can read the start date for some of your tiers using the Tier Info tab. But as long as it's a past date (say no more than a year old) you should be fine. Over to the right from those boxes, are some "Nee file options." Select the "Create w/ 8 Byte Align" option (requires your bin to already be loaded, which we did). Leave the rest alone
There are a couple different ways of activating ppv. The first and safest is connect your phone line to your IRD and go into the diagnostic screen. This is explained in detail later when it needs to be done.
The easiest way is simply use the PPV actiation tier. Warning this is thought by some that this may be a ecm target.
The last is to append the ppv string. You do this by
Select ACTION drop down menu
Then APPEND PPV String
Then EDIT STORED String
enter this string
(rom3)
07230B010100008AFF7FFE7FFE7FFE7FFEFF00007F00FF0000
03E77FFF7FFF7FFE7FFE7FFE
(rom2)B0B010100008AFF7FFE7FFE7FFE7FFEFF00007F00FF0 00003E77FFF7FFF7FFE7FFE7FFE
Click OK after verifying its entered correctly
Select ACTION
Select APPEND PPV String
Select USE STORED STRING
You will see bin scroll by and PPV should show 2
This step isnt needed but will later save time editing your nee. Goto config, Click get current where it has box keys and ird info. This will pull all info off your loaded bin for your ird#, boxkeys and zipcode. If you want to change irds its also easier to do it here.
Now click the "Randomize" button if you wish, then the "Create" button.
You'll be at the "Nee Files" box now. If your card is ROM2 card, select NE2 as the file type, else if it's a ROM3 (most common) select NE3 as the file type (I personally copy the lines and place in an existing file). Choose whether you want to save the NEE as 1 file or 4 files (I never have problems using the 1 file option, if you do then try creating 4 files). Make sure you click the button (for 1 or 4 files) that's pointing to the right (it's also the bottom two buttons if you're not sure), else you'll be saving the original bin's NEE file.
No go back into talk, press A, type Y to acknowledge the warning, then type the file name to load on your card (without the .ne3 or .ne2 extension). It will take a while, but once it's loaded you should be watching TV!
This next step only needs to be done if you didnt already activate ppv in another way. Connect your phone line to your IRD and go into the diagnostic screen. Test the phone line, then unplug the phone line. Re-dump the card in talk, name it something like activat.bin. Now you should be able to watch PPV since the IRD has been told it's connected to a line. Some newer models (noticed on the dishplayer 500) seems to want to test the line every time you watch a movie. This is safe, as long as you only have the line connected for about 10 seconds (it would take longer to actually dial dish, connect, and send info). You can listen in on another phone if you wish. Once your PPV are full, you can convert that bin into an .ne3 file, and rewrite lines $E5A8 and below (or run bincmp and only write the differences, for semi-advanced users). Some important notes:
Here's some important card locations. The locations aren't exact though, in particular the second two CAMID locations always seem to be off for me but not by much. To make sure, type the actual number in Windows Calculator in decimal mode (for the CAMID leave off the last two numbers on the card) and convert to hex. Now search for this number in the bin or nee file, replace with the new info.
040D-0410 = IRD (backwards)
0421-0428 = Secret Boxkey
0508-050F = Decrypt Key 0
0510-0517 = Decrypt Key 1
E038-E03C = CAM ID
E42F-E432 = CAM ID
E4EC-E4EE = CAM ID
E408-E40A = Zip Code
E40B = Time Zone