A better Pic of a mod Mik-III- Rev


Guys, this weekend I put some time to enhance this pic in PhotoShop, I also put the print on each chip and have shown the numbering order of the pins.
If you have a different loader the connections should still work, just read the print on each chip and compare with yours and the Tucker's Schematics
I guess this will help our members regardless of the hardware experience.

Mods, please move the tread to the necessary place, Thanx!

doesint pin one start at the dot in the corner of the chip? just wondering about that, but good pic.........

Sorry for the confusion, folks,
I did it using a dental mirror, so got it half reversed.
I've reposted it correctly now.

Thanks, bugger
Two sets of eyes are always better the one! :yes:

I wish I had that good of a picture when I modded mine. But does it work without the #10 pin on the 232 chip being lifted. The way I modded mine iis I lifted the #10 pin and put a spst switch between #10 and pin #18 on the 2313. If you flash your loader before you lift the pin you do not need the switch unless you need to reflash the loader with one of the other flashes. Like if you are doing rom 10 and want to do a rom3. Not being smart just wondered if it works that way. Thanks phantom

So , all i need to do is to soldier this wires and that´s it ? what about wasn´t there something to calibrate?

Just asking beacuse i´m doing it thanks for the picture it looks great.

Hacktor...

So , all i need to do is to soldier this wires and that´s it ? what about wasn´t there something to calibrate?

Just asking beacuse i´m doing it thanks for the picture it looks great.

Hacktor...

I think you are talking about a trimmer pot. This picture has a 2.2k ohms resistor instead. I started to go into detail but here is a copy and paste which explains what you are looking at.

Now for the mod....

Gently lift pins 1 and 4 of the HC00 chip. Lift pin 10 on the 232 chip, if your board has a 233 chip then lift pin 1.

Solder jumper from AT90S2313 pin 14 to HC00 pin 10.
Solder jumper from AT90S2313 pin 18 to HC00 pin 4.
Solder jumper from HC00 pin 8 to HC4053 pin 9 (the one to the left looking at front of loader).
Solder jumper from HC00 pin 9 to HC04 pin 2.
Solder jumper from HC00 pin 1 to HC74 pin 5 (located right above HC00).
Solder 2.2k resistor or (trim pot not really needed) from card slot vcc to ground (c10 is close by).
Install switch from 232 pin 10 (or 233 pin 1) to AT90S2313 pin 18 (on for flashing and off for unlocking.

This is only for the picture you were looking at a Mikobu III.Hope this gets you going. Thanks phantom

Also you should lift the #10 pin on the MAX232 when connecting the on/off (flash/Unlock) switch between pin#10 (MAX232) and pin #18 on the Atmel 2313.
In my case I cut the traces off the pin (some of them on the opposite site of the board) instead of lifting pins, cause pins break easily.
Remember the counting of the pins is counterclockwise starting from the dot on the top of the each chip.

Good luck.

Good jog big pop didn't mean to jump into your post just wondered about the pin on 232 chip. Thanks phantom

This mod, dose it just convert the Mik3 into an ISO or is it just for rom cards? Have you ever tried to open the p4-d1

Modded my mik 3 using this post WORKS GREAT, only bad thing im outta cards to open. Used pot instead of 2.2k resister.

Moved to the proper forum. Everyone give big pop some rep now ;)

the best mod pics Ive seen for a mikabu

This mod, dose it just convert the Mik3 into an ISO or is it just for rom cards? Have you ever tried to open the p4-d1

I have the same question....Will this work to read sle4428 or acos 1 8k cards?

This is a post from Protech-equip. I was an avid member of this forum until I decided to damage the community and these very forums in several ways. One of these was by spreading unfounded rumours and lies about the admin here. Another was be editting hundreds of posts I made here with some useless text. The ironic thing is that I actually made a lot of money selling various pirate devices through this very website.

I could have easily chosen to email the admin and ask him to zero out the IP's or even delete my account but decided I would damage the forums and talk shit about the people here instead.

I should be ashamed of this but am likely not.

Do you know where I can find a flash for the mik. 3 so it will read regular smart cards? Sorry if this has been covered before...haven't been here in a while. :no:

This is a post from Protech-equip. I was an avid member of this forum until I decided to damage the community and these very forums in several ways. One of these was by spreading unfounded rumours and lies about the admin here. Another was be editting hundreds of posts I made here with some useless text. The ironic thing is that I actually made a lot of money selling various pirate devices through this very website.

I could have easily chosen to email the admin and ask him to zero out the IP's or even delete my account but decided I would damage the forums and talk shit about the people here instead.

I should be ashamed of this but am likely not.

Thanks a lot for posting this big-pop.... this is the 2nd loader I have acquired to play with and up until now, could not find a mod anywhere for it. Rep points are in order for sure.

Hey fellas, Was just wondering, do I connect solder Pin #14 from atmel chip to pin #4 on the board or Pin# 4 on the chip of 74hc00:wacko:

Just wondering if anyone knows where to get the correct trim pot for the Mik III v 6.2 I have one from the old HU days and would like to mod it accordingly.....btw these are great pix and info....thanks a bunch...

i still have one of these mik3 going to mod it to unlock 102 what software do i need? will extreme hu work and what steps do i take thanks

Go to post # 1 and #6 that is all you need

Hacktor...

I got one of these MikIII's used and I did the mod today -- I can't make it work on my rev105's. I keep getting "no atr." I followed #1 and #6 except: I flashed it first, left out the switch, and didn't lift pin#10 on the 232. I am using winexplorer 5 with these scripts: http://forums.dsstester.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=57495
Shouldn't this work?

*edit* I lifted the #10 pin and corrected a poor joint, WinExplorer seems to be running the script now.

p.s.-- this thing came with no documentation -- can someone tell me what the jumper is for? Is it on or off for unlocking?

The Update Status Word is at 0 (Decimal)
The Fuse Byte is at 0 (Decimal)
I'm Unlocked! Thanks for the tips fellas, I'm watching TV on my cs5k now!

Hacktor, I put a resistor on it, but I think I had two problems (1) I had a bad joint on my HC00 (grounded under chip leg) and (2) I still had the blue jumper (left of atmel in pic) uninstalled.

Whoohoo, I'm gonna do another now:) Thanks everyone, can I give rep to everybody?

Hey fellas, Was just wondering, do I connect solder Pin #14 from atmel chip to pin #4 on the board or Pin# 4 on the chip of 74hc00:wacko:


To the chip

I got one of these MikIII's used and I did the mod today -- I can't make it work on my rev105's. I keep getting "no atr." I followed #1 and #6 except: I flashed it first, left out the switch, and didn't lift pin#10 on the 232. I am using winexplorer 5 with these scripts: http://forums.dsstester.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=57495
Shouldn't this work?


Try nagramaster you'll need to be flashed with newd13
http://forums.dsstester.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=49512

And heres a comport tester
http://forums.dsstester.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=46028

did you put a pot or a resistor on it.

when I get no atr or error usualy means the pot is to low need to move it a little bit to get more homs

Hacktor....

Hi,
I just modded my Mik III and I'm getting "Failed: Could not find Active Amtel!".
Any Ideas???
Thanks

What are you grounding it with. I had to use an aligator clip to get it flash

I think I read somewhere that you have to replace the two 4053 chips with the faster 4619 chips to be able to unlock rev 105 and higher.And that you had to install a trim pot instead of a resistor because the procedure calls for 2 different ohm settings at different times......and if the ohmage is wrong you could loop your card/s.I cant remember where I read that at but I know I read it somewhere along the way....maybe maestra.......If anyone could clarify this would be great!!

I got the same response until I discovered it needed a power source to flash! I used an old 9v300ma ac/dc converter for mine.

1 Turn the switch on and off and try
2 Make sure the jumper is on
3 check comp port
4 and like dishready says check volts but with it´s natural computer source 5v should be enough.


Hacktor.....

What are you grounding it with. I had to use an aligator clip to get it flash
Is this the answer to burchard's question?
I have a "failed to find atmel" error as well on my mik3/4 rev D. I'm using a 9V-300mA with jumper installed? What could be the problem?
Thanks

1 Turn the switch on and off and try
2 Make sure the jumper is on
3 check comp port
4 and like dishready says check volts but with it´s natural computer source 5v should be enough.


Hacktor.....

is the jumper on for flashing and off for glitching?? I tried every combo of jumper/script until i got it, but it was pure trial and error and i'm still not sure what that jumper does, especially after lifting the atmel pin during the mod...thanks.

Jumper should be on at all times at least that´s how I use it.
I sugested the jumper because people take it out and never replace it and tha is a problem for flashing, if you do not have it on. Even if you have a switch when moded the jumper should be on.

Hacktor...

I am trying to mod my mikobu III exactly in this picture but its kept giving me the display "can't check a high level script". The problem i am having is uncertainty as to the connection of the 2.2k resistor, i am not sure if there is a connection point at the two cans c10 and the other. Connection is made at one side of c8 and about the fourth solder point to the middle of the board.Can anyone who done this assist me? I have even flash the chip with the atmel flash.

I am trying to mod my mikobu III exactly in this picture but its kept giving me the display "can't check a high level script". The problem i am having is uncertainty as to the connection of the 2.2k resistor, i am not sure if there is a connection point at the two cans c10 and the other. Connection is made at one side of c8 and about the fourth solder point to the middle of the board.Can anyone who done this assist me? I have even flash the chip with the atmel flash.

Try clicking "Run Script". That should do the trick. Just solder the resistor or potentiometer to c8 and to the 4th pin and you're all set!! Don't worry about the 2 cans, for there is no connection made there!! That's what I've done to mine and it works great!!

Now i have the correct connection but on selecting run script it reads "Getting Cam ID for Log File
Timeout from 2A command".

Anyone seen this error before?

Read this thread you will get an idea for setting up winex loader2 are unlooper2
sounds like your set on programmer.


http://forums.dsstester.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=60291&highlight=unlooper2

Now i finally got rid of the error and getting some readings but its now reading pure minus signs "-------" and continues for long periods. I am using a 2.2 k resistor.

hello,
i have buy a vortex pro (rev.c) m6.3 but it dont run in portugal, i think that is because it dont have switchs, in nexus i use 3 and 5 on to glitch. in vortex always gives me f8 dont work .
i tall to the resseler by mail that toll me that de manufacters ware busted and dont help me.
what can i do??
anyone please know the changes to make or have the sheme ok nexus and wortex to i try to make the changes need?
the ics are erased so i dont know which one they are.
i just buy it 2 weeks and need to talk to my brother that lives in USA to buy it to there and then send it to portugal.
thanks a lot to all and happy glichings

hello,
i have buy a vortex pro (rev.c) m6.3 but it dont run in portugal, i think that is because it dont have switchs, in nexus i use 3 and 5 on to glitch. in vortex always gives me f8 dont work .
i tall to the resseler by mail that toll me that de manufacters ware busted and dont help me.
what can i do??
anyone please know the changes to make or have the sheme ok nexus and wortex to i try to make the changes need?
the ics are erased so i dont know which one they are.
i just buy it 2 weeks and need to talk to my brother that lives in USA to buy it to there and then send it to portugal.
thanks a lot to all and happy glichings

Didn't you asked this same question already in another forum?

70596

KB

A better Pic of a mod Mik-III- Rev


Guys, this weekend I put some time to enhance this pic in PhotoShop, I also put the print on each chip and have shown the numbering order of the pins.
If you have a different loader the connections should still work, just read the print on each chip and compare with yours and the Tucker's Schematics
I guess this will help our members regardless of the hardware experience.

Mods, please move the tread to the necessary place, Thanx!

por favor el que tenga un mik y quiera subir el esquematico completo. Hay que dar nivel al foro no ocupar espacio por ocupar con gente tan incompleta. bye:grr:

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I dunno :unsure: The online translator says he's complaining about something, but Babelfish is too broken up, I can't make any sense of it :lol:

Hello Fellow Testers, I have one question that I would really appreciate an answer to.
Do I have to lift the all the pins I have to solder on this Mik3 Mod?
Thanks in advance, TEODOE

Hello Fellow Testers, I have one question that I would really appreciate an answer to.
Do I have to lift the all the pins I have to solder on this Mik3 Mod?
Thanks in advance, TEODOE

No, you don't have to lift all the pins. Just follow the wiring directions in post #6. The resistor in the pic is a 2200K or 2.2k ohm resistor you can get at rat shack but, a potentiometer works best to fine tune.

Hope this helps...

KB

Thanks guy that helps alot. It's probably the reason why my computer doesn't detect the mik3. I lift all the pins I had to solder.:barf: I wonder if I can solder them back? If not do you guys have any suggestions on which programmer I can buy?
Thanks, TEODOE

You can get a cheapie ISO programmer/reader as long it has the 3.686 Mhz crystal. You can ask in the "Wanted To Buy" forum to see if anyone has one for sale.

KB